History:
Austrian wine growing tradition goes back to the legendary edict of the Roman
emperor Probus which ordered legions stationed in Austria to drink local
vintages rather than Italian ones. Since that long-ago time, Austrian
winegrowing has experienced a steady increase in volume and quality. Although
there was a short period during the 1960’s where commercial considerations led
to an emphasis on quantity rather than quality, the timely introduction of stiff
new laws controlling production has created a wine industry which can take its
rightful place beside any other in Europe. Today, all of the Austrian
wine-growing regions produce wines of remarkable finesse. They are bright to the
eye, subtle and complex in the bouquet, and light and highly sophisticated on
the palate.
The following are some of the more famous Austrian wines we will come across during our journey:
Grüner
Veltliner:
This is Austria’s most
popular grape variety. This wine can be tasted young and fresh and
delights with its fruity taste.It has a
delicate golden colour with just a hint of green.
Rheinriesling:
This wine is milder in taste and has a wonderful bouquet. Rheinriesling is one
of the most elegant wines in Austria especially when it originates in the Wachau,
the area along the Danube between Krems and Melk.
Welschriesling:
A wine with a very fine bouquet rich
in fruity aromas
Müller
Thurgau:
A well-known grape variety which
produces a very mild, semi-dry wine with a flowery bouquet.
Muskat-Ottonel:
A very unique wine with a slightly nutty flavour.
Neuburger:
A very popular and widely
disseminated grape variety in Austria. This wine, while being rich in taste is
still very mild.
Chardonnay:
A most sought after variety of wine in modern times. A few years ago, an
Austrian vintner received the prize for the world’s best Chardonnay.
Sauvignon
blanc:
The classic Sauvignon blanc is high in acidity and
has a slight taste of green peppers.
Blauburgunder:
A
very full-bodied Wein which goes wonderfully with game and red meat dishes.
Blaufränkisch:
This is an Austrian speciality, with a full body and tending towards being dry.
It is often finished in bariques which allows it to command a higher price. However, even the regular Blaufränkische wines belong to the most prestigious group of Austrian wines.
Blauer
Portugieser:
This is usually just a red table wine of medium quality but an excellent buy if
the price is right.
St.
Laurent:
Another name for BLAUBURGUNDER
Schilcher:
A rose speciality from the Steiermark. It has spicy overtones.
"Heurigen"
No discussion of Austrian wine
would be complete without a few words about the "Heurigen". The
word itself means "
this year’s" and
the institution of selling this wine was started by Emperor Josef II’s
1784 law which permitted vintners to sell wine and food produced on the
premises. If a Heurigen (Buschenschank) tavern is open, it usually displays a Buschen
(bow of evergreen) or a sun-shaped ring woven out of straw over its entrance
along with a sign telling you its “ausg’steckt”. Nowadays, you can
often find a green light bulb in the center of the straw -sun-sign. Most of
these taverns are found in the former villages of Vienna’s outer suburbs to
the north on the slopes of the Wienerwald and are easily accessible by public
transport.
There are also a handful of Staddtheurigen taverns located close to the city center usually in the cellars of the city’s monasteries. These latter places are not real Heurigen at all, but are still great places to drink this heady white wine and eat the local cuisine.
A word of caution: The Heurige wine is very young, and tastes deceptively mild and fruity. However, it packs quite a kick and should always be consumed in moderation and with a generous tasting of the local cuisine.